Pattern review · Uncategorized

A Sister for Clover

When I first came up with the idea for Clover I had so many different ideas for it, but just too much for one pattern. Gets too confusing! I realized it needed to be split into a knit pattern and a woven pattern.

Clover is great for all seasons with the different sleeve lengths, but Rose Hip is better suited for that fall sewing and it’s been such a treat to work on this first ever outerwear pattern for Sofiona.

Tween friendly sewing pattern by Sofiona Designs. The Rose Hip jacket in waist length and including the optional welt pockets and sleeve pocket.
Photo: Dorothy

The details for Rose Hip are awfully close to the same for Clover, but with a few changes that make it a jacket and make it just a bit different. Here’s the full rundown.

Line drawings for the Rose Hip Jacket by Sofiona Designs.
  • Sizes 2-16
  • 3 bodice options A, B, or C
  • Crop or waist length
  • Hood with curved gusset or bomber jacket style neckband
  • Optional piping in the style lines
  • Optional zippered sleeve pocket
  • Optional welt pockets (waist length only)
  • Single or double cuff
  • A0 and projector files are included
Cute Rose Hip jackets for these adorable twin girls. With piping and welt pockets and gusseted hoods.
Photo: Kendel @pleatsandcurls

This pattern is labeled as “Advanced”, however, I realize that means different things for a lot of people. I’m calling it advanced because it uses 2 techniques that are not as common in easy, quick sewing patterns. Welt pockets and zippers. Working with curves could also be considered more advanced for some people but those are easily eliminated by choosing the plain view and leaving off the hood.

The Rose Hip jacket by Sofiona Designs made with Art Gallery Fabric canvas and cuffing from Sitka Fabrics.
Photo: Sherri @mamidesofiona
Two Rose Hip jackets. One with a hood and one with the bomber style neckband.
Photo: Noortje @noortjesnels

We have this grand idea of someday having the ability to do more YouTube videos of our different patterns. To showcase different techniques used in specific patterns. That’s a massive job for the “someday” pile, but I did attempt one for this project. It’s about shortening zippers. Not a lot of people like doing it. I’ll admit I have felt very similar, but recently I noticed that I’m actually a LOT faster at doing this than I was the first few times and now it’s not at all a deterrent. You’ll see in this video that I prefer a wire cutter over the flat screwdriver and pliers that others use. I just can’t! I’ve tried and I always end up with bleeding hands as I try to shove the screwdriver under the teeth or zipper stop. I honestly have no idea how they do it! The sharp edge of the wire cutters is the only thing that has worked for me and so I’m suggesting it for you.

I dare you to watch this without dancing in your seat. The music was added specifically to make you think you’re happy to shorten your zippers! LOL

Fabric options for Rose Hip are actually quite vast! We saw such a great variety of choices from our creative testers.

Photo: Katie @3lavenderlane

The recommendation is woven fabrics and we saw linen, quilted coating, faux fur, wool, velvet, mystery fabrics… all sorts. However, some knit fabrics can be used as well such as this jacquard jersey. This has a minimal 2-way stretch and I lined it with a woven which helped to add structure when attaching the front zipper. I would say that front zipper is the one thing that really needs thought if you’re going to choose a knit fabric. They can get really wavy if it’s not sewn on just right.

Isn’t this outfit such a cute “school uniform” look? It’s the Spruce woven skirt and the Cattail tank under the Rose Hip jacket.

A plaid jacquard jersey Rose Hip jacket with hood and welt pockets and shown with the Spruce skirt.
Photo: Trish @5littledoodles

The lining was one area where some testers had extra fun and I just have to share. Brenda asked about using sherpa for the inside of hers and we decided she should choose a size up to make room for the extra bulk. Other testers agreed that sizing up IS the good choice as they tried other warm linings like minky. And look at how amazing this is!! This jacket is going to be worn much later into the season now because of that cozy inside.

A sherpa lined Rose Hip bomber jacket. Perfect for fall weather.
Photo: Brenda @olivergraycreations

Some testers just lined the hood with fuzzy fabric which wouldn’t require a size up.

This is one of the best parts of having a tester team. They bring all sorts of great ideas to the designing table.

A corduroy waist length Rose Hip jacket with all options including hood, piping, welt pockets, double cuffs and zippered sleeve pocket.
Photo: Amanda @derivingmommyhood

Another idea that some tried was adding a loop to the inside for hanging. This is more of a hack since the construction steps don’t quite work with a loop without a few changes. Here are the 3 ways that people tried.

A variety of loop options for hanging the Rose Hip jacket.

The top two loops can be sewn into the neckline seam quite easily and then you would either omit the topstitching around the neckline just in that area or you could pull it down and topstitch over the loop. This would keep it from sticking up at the back and being visible when the hood is down (like one that I made and now bugs me every time I see that loop sticking up).

The bottom picture is something a bit more fancy and would require some stitching to the main bodice. See more about what Dagbjört did in her blog post here. I do love the direction she was going and I think it’s another great way to elevate the jacket. Especially when you add those personalized labels like she has.

The inside of the Rose Hip bomber jacket with a hanging loop and gorgeous trim over the zipper tape.

–Edited to add — Since I wrote this post I made yet another Rose Hip and decided to put a hanging loop in this one. I was not happy with the way my first one stuck up and was visible from the back when wearing, so this time I tacked the loop down while I was topstitching the neckline and it is perfect! I just needed to make sure the loop was long enough to handle loosing that extra bit of length into the topstitching.

Gorgeous gold piping in the Rose Hip jacket with welt pockets and double cuffs.
Photo: Deborah @casennina

I have a personal “thing” about piping and trim. For some reason I can’t put two different fabrics together without adding some sort of detail between them. At least not very often. So I made sure to add some piping to the tutorial and I found that my invisible zipper foot was actually perfect for the satin cording that I prefer to use for this pattern. Take a look!

Using an invisible zipper foot to attach satin cording or piping.
Using an invisible zipper foot for attaching satin cording.

The invisible zipper foot fits perfectly over the satin cording and I found that it helped to keep the cording from shifting around by guiding it UNDER the foot instead of beside it like my regular zipper foot. Now, both DO work very well, but I felt like I got a cleaner seam with my invisible zipper foot. I used a pin to press the fabric down as it was feeding into the machine so it wouldn’t start folding under the foot.

This just makes me want to only ever use satin cording for piping from now on just so I can further use my invisible zipper foot. It’s easily one of my favourite extra feet.

A velvet Rose Hip jacket. Waist length with zippered sleeve pocket, welt pockets and gusseted hood.
Photo: Sherri @mamidesofiona

The double cuff is one of my favourite things about this pattern, which is kind of funny because it’s really not that big of a deal. I just like the “extra”! You can use just the short cuff, just the long cuff, or both together!

The bomber style version of the Rose Hip jacket with double cuffs and welt pockets.
Photo: Aukje @sewcucio

Laurel tried something a bit different with her hood. Instead of the recommended cuffing for the hood trim, she decided to use her main fabric and bring all that cozy around the face. The hood trim is drafted with JUST a little bit of negative ease but simply measure the front of the hood and adjust the length as needed if you’re using a non-stretch fabric. You can see it was a really smart decision here.

A fluffy fabric Rose Hip jacket in waist length.
Photo: Laurel @ssewingchrysanthemum
A warm version of the Rose Hip jacket. Made with the hood and welt pockets.
Photo: Geneviève @genevieve__o
The Rose Hip jacket with all the options and made in a linen for a beautiful lightweight jacket in spring and summer.
Photo: Trish @5littledoodles

This jacket can quite easily be made into a reversible jacket!! But no one has tried yet. In true Sofiona form, we care a lot about what the inside of your garments look like so all the seams are nicely hidden. The only area that needs a little extra thought is the zipper. Of course, you need a reversible zipper. Once you have that, a person would only need to take a moment to decide how they want to finish the inside of the zipper. The tutorial includes instructions for adding a nice ribbon or twill tape to cover the zipper tape, but here Danielle did a hong kong seam on the inside of the zipper. You can see it’s very clean and would be a really nice detail on the outside of a jacket. Both the ribbon or these bounds seams would work to makes Rose Hip a great reversible garment!!

Hong Kong seams on the Rose Hip jacket making a clean inside of this handmade garment.
Photo: Danielle

Annedien showed us this picture of the inside of her incredible camo jacket. She pieced her lining instead of using the typical lining and it gives us a great idea of how a reversible jacket could work. If only she had the right zipper on hand!

The inside view of the Rose Hip Jacket. Capable of being reversible with the appropriate zipper.

But we can all agree that this jacket is 100% cool no matter what.

The Rose Hip jacket in View B. Shown in camo fabric as a tween friendly fall jacket.
Photo: Annedien

Now I’m really hoping someone is going to try this and show us.

These two. I’m in love with both jackets. The black is our crop length and the plaid is the waist length. Not a huge difference, but this very girl is the one I had in mind when I thought of the cropped version. She’s got that dancer vibe (cuz she dances for real) and loves her cropped style. I knew she’d rock this and she does. Her sister is wearing my favourite plaid EVER!!! I would wear that any day.

The Rose Hip jackets in both the cropped and waist length version. Also shown with zippered sleeve pocket and double cuffs.
Photo: Kara @stitchindancemom

Here’s another little dancer rocking her fluffy cropped Rose Hip for her dance class. How cool is she!!??

The Rose Hip cropped jacket in fuzzy faux fur perfect for dance wear.
Photo: Heather @made_cerahnaomi

I think that’s all. I really hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I do. To us, it’s one of those makes that gives you a satisfied feeling at the end because you realize you just made a jacket!

Share your Rose Hips with us and use the hashtags #sofirosehip #sofionadesigns #rosehipinthewild so we can find you. I leave you with a few more pics of the incredible tester versions.

The Rose Hip jacket in waist length. The bomber style neckline, double cuffs, and welt pockets.
Photo: Dagbjört @bydagbjort
The Rose Hip jacket in waist length. Shown with the hood and zippered sleeve pocket.
Photo: Kelle @justsewsomething

2 thoughts on “A Sister for Clover

    1. I think it’s a nice mix of hoodie and jacket. I want to make a Rose Hip using a nice french terry someday. When I’m ready to put a zip on knit fabric. 😜

      Like

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